Dogs are often possessive of toys, treats, or food. That’s not to say they should be allowed to continue this behavior especially if their attitude shifts to aggression. Yes, the slightest snarl or low growl if you reach for their toys or food is an aggressive behavior. It’s not “ok, because that’s what dogs do!”
What about when they are possessive of you? If you have more than one dog, you may have experienced a behavior that resembles possessiveness. The object of their desire – you. Unfortunately, they are blocked or being body slammed by the other four-legged family member who also wants you!
It is up to you to take charge and to not encourage their need to be your favorite at that moment. It’s similar to when siblings argue and the parent tells the kids, “go to your rooms and come out when you can get along.” Dogs won’t get that; however, you can give neither affection until they are calm and cooperative.
Some dogs will turn on the other dog and a scuffle will ensue all because one dog wanted to get your affection before the other. We are flattered and find their attention endearing when really it is the response of an anxious dog. It is almost impossible to not at some point in time reward this behavior; however, you can give affection to both dogs as soon as they realize that neither are getting your attention when they are attempting to one-up each other.
As I walk in the door after a day of training and I smell like numerous dogs, I know I’ve heard my dogs say – “She’s mine! She’s mine! She’ll pet me first and besides I’m bigger than you!” I do my best to avoid rewarding this behavior and so should you. They’ll still love you. . .I promise.
I heard a “tele-trainer” declare that trainers who use treats don’t know what they are doing and are bribing dogs and the dog won’t respond unless given a treat. He obviously has never done it correctly as it does work. Using a treat as reward for a desired behavior is very effective – for some dogs.
The type of reward – treat, verbal praise, or physical affection all have their place. Treats work well for timid dogs in helping them gain confidence in humans. Verbal praise is always good – this works nicely for humans too! Physical affection isn’t always the best reward initially as some dogs fall a part when given affection and quickly roll over for a belly rub.
The particular trainer who is so opposed to treats, uses a special training collar. I have met a lot of dogs who were trained through aversion training, and they only respond when wearing the appropriate gear – e-collar, prong collar, etc.
Of course, there’s not a one-reward-fits-all training method and training collars may be necessary for certain dogs. A well-trained dog who respects us and we them, will respond regardless of the reward. So, why not use a positive approach to training?
Have a training question? Send it to me in the box to the right.
Dogs can and do obsess – some lick carpet, their feet, grout, the sofa fabric, air. Some focus intently on cars, golf carts, or other moving objects such as tennis balls.
Where does this behavior originate? Is it genetic? Is it psychological? Do they need medication? When a human has a compulsion, they are observed, counseled, and some require medication.
When dogs exhibit the behaviors mentioned above, we tend to look at it like it’s not that big of a deal. We may not try to work with the dog until what they are doing begins to annoy us or they are injuring themselves. They may lick their feet or skin until they bleed. The are so focused that nothing seems to break their trance.
Some breeds need to work. They are genetically wired to fulfill a purpose. If we don’t provide a healthy focus or something that engages their greater purpose, they may focus and eventually obsess on something else less appropriate. Once they have gone into the trance-like state, it is difficult to get their attention.
Distracting them just prior to the second they go into their obsessive behavior is key. See if it is a matter of boredom or their need to “work.” Obedience training and behavior modification go hand in hand. Some behaviors will shift automatically once the dog is given a job. That may be putting a backpack on them and going for a focused walk. It may be teaching them to do things you may not normally think of – learning to turn on lights, pick up things off the floor for you, or agility classes, etc.
When dogs have a lot of energy and a lot of intelligence, being left alone without a greater purpose, can lead to obsessive-compulsive behaviors as their focus is misplaced. If this goes on long enough, it will take a lot of time, consistency, and understanding on your part as you work with them to alter this behavior into something more positive. It’s time well spent and you and your dog will both be happier!
If you have any questions or concerns about a behavior in your dog, please send a note in the box to the right.
This is not about a B-rated sci-fi movie where a dog becomes a man. Actually, it’s about when a male pup matures into a dog.
All puppies squat to do their business. At some magical, maturing moment, males typically learn to lift their leg. Not all do. They can learn it from being around other males; however, that’s not always necessary. Why do they lift their leg?
My clients will say, “oh, I hope he never learns to lift his leg.” What they are mostly referring to is the necessity to lift it on every leaf, twig, or object along their path. The dog is saying to everyone who cares, “I’ve been here, consider yourself warned!”
Female dogs “mark” as well, it just isn’t as compulsive as it is for the males. At about two years of age, dogs have a shift in their hormones and mature into dogs and begin leaving puppy-hood behind. So, if your dog doesn’t lift their leg prior to this, they may now. They may begin to feel the need to mark their territory. This territory may be in the home or things they had no possessive interest in until now.
You can’t stop their instinct, but you can redirect them and observe their sniffing around just prior to staking their claim. Along with the hormonal shifts, they are more likely to mark if something in their environment has changed and they feel threatened. (It’s not good to threaten or question a male’s masculinity – two or four-legged version). Giving your dog focused attention and being aware of the changes, will go a long way in reducing unwanted marking.
Most of us look at a dog’s tail to see if they are receptive to our greeting and approach. What does the wag of a tail tell?
Some tails wag faster based on their level of enthusiasm and excitement. Some tails don’t really wag but are more of a propeller that rotate in a circular motion. Some tails will wag out of nervousness and it may be positioned higher or lower than it is for a receptive greeting. Since you may not have the time to pay attention to those details, especially if you don’t know the dog, wait before reaching to give affection.
The problem comes when we always assume a wagging tail is a sign of affection and acceptance. It isn’t. Unfortunately for those who have been bitten by the other end of a wagging tail, assume they must have done something wrong to make the dog change it’s mind.
A wagging tail is a sign of “joy,” and it can be sign of nervousness and excitement just prior to a lunge that says something other than “Hi, glad to meet you!” Usually, the dogs physiology is shifting in more ways than just the wag of the tail, but more are focused on that end of the dog.
Next time you approach a dog and see it’s tail wagging, be sure to observe the rest of the dog’s body and any signs of aggression or fear. Most likely, the dog wants your affection, but it’s good to make sure!
Some dogs have a keen ear for the obvious. I have told my most prevalent barker – “Thank you, I would not have known there was a helicopter flying overhead if you hadn’t barked!” He may bark to let me know I closed a cabinet door. He may always be the great protector. He will, however, quiet his bark when told to do so – my favorite response to this silliness is “not necessary.” He seems to get it.
I have stated before that dogs bark. That’s what they do. An important aspect of stopping this behavior is not to wish they never barked, but that when you acknowledge their notification, they stop. It takes time and consistency for them to get it. It can be extremely annoying and a complete nuisance to have a barking dog. While you can’t do much if they live next door, you can work with your dog to find their triggers and what works to change it.
If they bark non-stop while confined, do not let them out of the space unless they are quiet and calmed down. If they bark to go outside, by all means, let them know that is good; however, don’t open the door until they are calm. It is difficult at times, but very important to pay attention to the behavior you are rewarding.
Most dogs bark for a reason – even if it is something so obvious that other dogs find no need in alarming the neighborhood. It may also seem as though your dog just likes the sound of it’s bark. It can be “youth,” boredom, lack of socialization, a breed characteristic, or practice for that 3:00 A.M. call!
As with most behavior modification, the change begins with you. Pay attention that you aren’t rewarding them for barking. They will bark, and learn to stop once you acknowledge them and ask them to “quiet.” Developing a leadership relationship with your dog is the first step in them changing this behavior.
Heel is the word used for having your dog walk along beside you. They are to be walking at the same pace and hopefully in the same direction! The purpose is so they are not pulling you down the street and they have the understanding they are walking with you and not the other way around.
Their head should be approximately in line with your left leg and not a head’s length in front of you. Why are they on the left? Good question. It most likely started with hunters and the human’s right hand was occupied with a weapon so the dog was on the left.
I am asked a lot why the dog needs to heel. Clients may want their dog to learn “sit” and “down” and “stay,” but wonder why it is necessary to learn to heel. If you ever need to have your dog on a leash and out in public, you will want them to work with you and to walk nicely at your side.
Teaching your dog to heel is one of the building blocks of your relationship. They don’t absolutely have to learn it; however, it’s like learning algebra prior to learning arithmetic. You can do it, but it’s easier to begin with the basics. In this case, the basics are teaching your dog to listen and respond to you and what better way than while on a walk where there are all sorts of distractions.
If you have questions regarding teaching your dog to heel, please send me a note in the box to the right. I am glad to assist you!
Pee pads are used a lot by breeders and provide a method of quick cleanup for puppy messes.They are extremely useful in the right circumstances.Many choose to use them when a puppy first comes home.
If, however, you want to get away from the pads and want the dog to soil outside, don’t use them as a means of convenience.You will be teaching your dog that soiling in the house is acceptable. Typically, a dog does not like to eliminate where they sleep and eat. If you are unknowingly encouraging that, housebreaking will be very challenging.
More than one dog trained using pads, continues to mistake a throw rug for a pad if it needs to go out and can’t immediately get there.
In the cases I’m referring to, the dog is housebroken and has developed his ability to hold it.They have to go and don’t see an obvious way to get outside. “Oh look, there’s a throw rug that looks vaguely like a pee pad, so I’ll just go right there.”
Due to restrictions, travel, or limited access to a safe place for the dog, some people choose to use pee pads exclusively. Housebreaking (potty training) would follow the same guidelines as if you are taking the dog outside; but rather than taking the dog outside, you will take the dog to the pad.Supervision is still required and praise for using the pad. If at all possible, place the pad in a separate area from their bed so they have to “go to the bathroom” in the desired area with the pad.
For a complete guide to Housebreaking, order my ebook with step-by-step instruction which comes with a second book on crate training.
Hi, our names are Zoe and Mac. We are both Labradoodles. As you can see, we have different looks. We are willing to leave our home so we can live with you and your family in the White House. This letter is difficult to type. We don’t know why racoons were given opposing thumbs and we weren’t. Maybe this is something you can answer while you are President.
Other than the fact that we are both “mixes” (something we thought you could relate to) we are also sweet, smart, and kind – which makes us a perfect addition to your family.
We would hate to leave our current home, but we have to tell you, as nice as it is, it’s not the White House! We both look good on camera and that is important given your work. We come completely housebroken, very healthy, and love children. We are great at keeping secrets and can be guard dogs when needed; although, we admit that isn’t our favorite thing to do. Please let us know if you are interested in meeting us.
We anxiously await your response. Congratulations! With all our love and licks. . .
Zoe and Mac
(If you would be so kind – please don’t tell our current family we wrote to you. Our internet privileges are sure to end if they find out.)
